How to Train A Wisteria Vine to A Tree Form

Jun 26, 2024

When I planted wisteria for the first time in my backyard, I knew it would not be hard for me to grow it. Days later, I found that my wisteria was only growing its vines. But I have seen people grow wisteria like a tree. So, how to train a wisteria vine to a tree form? It became super easy after knowing the answer!

Yes, you need some steps to make your wisteria expand like a tree. Cascading waterfalls of fragrant flowers create a truly magical scene. Today, I will guide the beginners about planting Wisteria and growing like trees. Those who haven’t been familiar with Wisteria get introduced first!

What is Wisteria?

Wisteria is a genus of twining, woody, deciduous vines native to China, Japan, Korea, and the southeastern United States. The phenomenal plant is known for its hanging flower clusters in purple, blue, white, and pink shades. The star attraction is undoubtedly the breathtaking display.

Moreover, you can train Wisteria to climb walls, fences, or pergolas to bring elegance to exterior design. Wisteria’s dense canopy also provides welcome shade during hot summer months. Overall, Wisteria is perfect for creating a cool and inviting outdoor space. You can create a living privacy screen with visual appeal.

Can Wisteria be Trained Into a Tree?

Absolutely! Wisteria naturally sprawls. You can cultivate it into a beautiful tree form if you are patient and trained like me. This can result in some major benefits, such as:

Tree form creates a captivating focal point in your garden.
The strong structure saves space compared to letting it sprawl freely.
The strength enhances the lifespan of the plant.

What are the Types of Wisteria for the Best Growth as a Tree?

Wisteria isn’t just one vine; it’s a diverse genus with over ten species and countless varieties! Let me tell you how to set them apart from each other! You need to look for the following variants in nurseries:

Asian Variants

The most popular varieties derive from Asia. You can produce stunningly long flower clusters from these gems. Asian Wisteria is undeniably gorgeous. Even they can be aggressive growers, sometimes considered invasive in certain areas:

Japanese Wisteria: Popular for its fragrance and cascading blooms.
Chinese Wisteria: Flowers are even earlier than Japanese varieties, often before leaves appear.
Silky Wisteria: Known for its silky-textured leaves and shorter flower clusters.

Native Alternatives Variants

Fortunately, there are lovely native North American Wisteria options that offer a responsible alternative:

American Wisteria: Easier to find and less vigorous than its Asian cousins. It blooms after leaves emerge, with shorter flower clusters.
Kentucky Wisteria: Similar to American wisteria but blooms slightly earlier.

I experience that Kentucky variants can be the best for growing as a tree form. Asia variants are gorgeous, yet they lack some efficiency in this specific matter.

How to Train Wisteria to a Tree Form?

With your chosen wisteria in hand, the transformation begins! Remember to be prepared for a journey requiring patience and consistent care. Training your Wisteria takes dedication throughout the year. You can observe the result by breathtaking wisteria in spring. But remember that with great motives comes great supplies! You need some precise tools for the training process.

Tools and Materials Needed for Wisteria Training:

Sturdy Support Post: Choose a metal or pressure-treated wooden post in 4×4 size. The post must handle the wisteria’s weight. Target a height exceeding your desired trunk height.

Gentle Ties: Soft twine or biodegradable ties are ideal for securing the vine to the post without causing damage as it grows. These will naturally break down over time, reducing maintenance.
Sharp Pruners: Invest in a good pair of pruners for shaping and maintaining your wisteria throughout its growth. Blunt pruners may break the vines, so take the sharpest one.
Reliable Shovel: You need to dig a hole for your post. So bring a sharp and safe shovel for the job. Bring safety gear to keep hands and legs safe from the shovel.

Step 1: Installing Support System

The post acts as the central trunk of your wisteria tree. Choose a spot directly behind the vine. Dig a hole at least 12-18 inches deep to firmly anchor the post. Plan for a post height of 4-5 feet above ground, leaving room for the Wisteria’s future growth.

Then, plant your wisteria with the base a few inches before the post. For existing wisteria, avoid disturbing the root system while installing the post. Ensure the post stands at least a foot taller than your desired final trunk height. This extra foot provides space for future training.

Step 2: Finding and Preparing Trunk

Select the strongest and thickest vine as your subject for a well-structured tree. This will be the main trunk of your Wisteria. My Wisteria had multiple vines, so you can experiment with those too. I let both of mine twine up the post, intertwining as they climbed.

Watch for side shoots emerging from the chosen main stem throughout the growing season. Prune these off carefully to encourage the vine to focus its energy on vertical growth. However, if the top of your vine lacks leaves, leave a couple of side shoots near the top.

Step 3: Securing the Trunk

Now comes the climb! Use soft ties to guide the main stem upwards along the post gently. Start near the base by tying a loose knot around the post and the vine. The key is to find a balance and secure enough for upright growth. Remember, some wiggle room is crucial in this stage.

Repeat this process every 8 inches, working your way up the vine. As your Wisteria grows taller, add more ties to maintain its upright posture and reach your desired height. Regularly inspect existing ties for tightness and adjust if needed to prevent unwanted constrictions.

Step 4: Giving Growing Time

At this stage, your Wisteria’s journey will continue! As you add ties and the vine climbs, keep an eye out for side shoots and any determined sprouts emerging from the base. You need to prune these to maintain the clean trunk look.

Once your vine reaches your desired trunk height (about a foot above the post), it’s time to create the magnificent canopy. Take a sharp snip with your pruners by removing the top growth above a healthy bud. This work will signal the Wisteria to stop focusing on vertical growth and produce lateral branches.

Step 5: Shaping and Pruning

Pinching off the top growth redirects your Wisteria’s energy. Instead of reaching for the sky, it will focus on branching outwards. This initial growth will form the framework of your canopy. To achieve a full and lush canopy, consistent maintenance is key.

Remember to keep the “trunk” free of side shoots by pruning them regularly. Don’t forget any determined basal shoots that might appear! During the dormant winter time, perform a thorough pruning to remove dead or crowded branches.

As the following growing season unfolds, prune back the lateral branches to about 12 inches. This stimulates further growth and potentially even flower buds. This needs a lot of waiting, right? The wait will be well worth it, as you’ll be rewarded with a magnificent cascading display of fragrant flowers.

How Long Can a Wisteria Grow?

Wisteria vines are incredibly long-lived and can grow for centuries with proper care. Some Wisteria specimens are reported to be over 100 years old!

How to Take Care of the Wisteria in the Future?

As your Wisteria matures, it transforms into a magnificent spectacle. The trunk thickens, and lateral branches fill out, creating a breathtaking canopy. Fortunately, mature wisteria requires minimal care. Ensure it receives sufficient water and at least 6 hours of daily sunshine.

Next, avoid high-nitrogen fertilizer, as it can inhibit flowering. Remove the trunk shoots and follow the recommended winter and summer pruning schedules. Over time, your Wisteria may become self-supporting by allowing you to remove the post.

How to Prune Wisteria for Shape?

To maintain your Wisteria tree’s shape, prune it twice a year. Once after flowering in summer, shorten side shoots to around 12 inches. Remove any unwanted growth in late winter, focusing on maintaining the desired structure. I will say Wisteria’s beauty lies not just in its blooms, but also in its elegant structure. Here’s how to prune for a captivating shape:

Summer Pruning: Throughout the growing season, keep an eye on those lateral branches (side shoots) that sprouted after pinching the top. Once they reach about 6 leaves, prune them back to just above the 2nd or 3rd leaf.
Winter Pruning: It’s time for a more substantial pruning session in winter when your Wisteria is dominant. Focus on removing dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches. Doing this, you could bring better air circulation and prevent the canopy from becoming too dense.
Shaping the Canopy: Use this opportunity to refine the shape of your canopy during unwanted branch removal. Visualize the desired form and prune it strategically. Look for a balanced canopy with branches growing outwards, not competing for space in the center.

Avoid removing excessive growth if your pruning is necessary. The goal is maintaining a healthy structure while permitting your Wisteria enough foliage for optimal growth and future blooms.

Why Does Some Wisteria Not Bloom After Training?

I had many emails and texts regarding the matter that Wisteria did not bloom even after special care. Before taking drastic measures, consider some common culprits hindering the floral display. Those are seed vs graft ratio, sunlight shortage, weather woes, fertilizer faux pas, etc. So, address these potential issues and significantly increase your chances of witnessing growth.

Seed vs. Graft: Seed-grown Wisteria can be notoriously slow to flower, taking up to seven years (or never!). So, opt for a grafted plant, which typically blooms within 3 years.

Sunlight Shortage: Wisteria thrives with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. Shade can significantly reduce flower production.
Weather Woes: Late frosts and strong winds can damage delicate flower buds, especially on Wisteria sinensis. Conversely, hot summers often precede the best blooming seasons.
Fertilizer Faux Pas: Skip the high-nitrogen fertilizers! Wisteria, like other legumes, fixes its own nitrogen in the soil. Excess nitrogen promotes rampant leaf growth at the expense of blooms.

Conclusion

I hope my guide can save you some of the failed attempts to make Wisteria form like a tree. With a little dedication and these simple steps, you can transform your Wisteria vine into a breathtaking tree that will envy your neighborhood.

FAQs

Can any Wisteria be trained into a tree form?

Not all! While most wisteria varieties can be trained, some Asian species are very vigorous and might be difficult to manage. Consider American or Kentucky wisteria for a more manageable option.

How long will it take to train my Wisteria?

You must have a good level of patience for the training. The process can take several years. Focus on consistent training and pruning throughout the growing seasons to achieve your desired shape.

My Wisteria has multiple vines. Can I use them all?

I would say you can experiment! Choose the thickest vine as your main trunk. You can try letting other vines twine around the post for a unique look, but be prepared for more maintenance.

Why aren’t there any flowers on my Wisteria tree?

There are several reasons. Seed-grown wisteria takes much longer to bloom than grafted varieties. Ensure your wisteria gets enough sunlight, and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizer.

How do I maintain the shape of my Wisteria tree?

For trees to keep their shape, they need to be pruned often. Cut back all side shoots in the top to about 12 inches after the flowers die back in late spring or early summer. It will help flower buds grow the next year.

How do you make Wisteria grow faster?

Focus on providing essential nutrients during the growing season. A monthly dose of high-potassium fertilizer helps flower production. Water the container-grown wisteria weekly. Finally, add a layer of organic mulch like compost or aged manure to retain moisture in autumn.